Professional racers have no concern for in-cabin noise. Most of their cars carry no sound deadening equipment at all, since it weighs more than a few ounces and can’t be found in carbon fiber. But those cars are for making money. Yours is for recreation. You might even drive it every day.
So before you resign yourself to bleeding eardrums every time you go to work, check out a low-cost, light weight alternative. Dynamat offers a sound deadening solution that will make your interior more civilized without hampering your car’s very uncivilized performance.
It should be noted that while Dynamat was invented to cut some of the interior noise performance vehicles happily spout, it can be used in just about anything that likes to sing to you without any volume control. It can keep car audio from rattling. It can keep a super-cooled computer from ruining conversation. It’s even used in homes.
But no matter where you want to put it, you’ll need to know how to put it in. Here’s a quick run-down on how install a little peace and quiet.
1. Prep the Surface
Let’s face it. The insides of your doors, and the area underneath your carpet aren’t places to host your next dinner party. Years of dirt, dust, and Bondo powder are likely coating every bit of bare metal you can find to insulate. Since Dynamat uses an adhesive backing, you’ll need to clean your target areas.
Dynamat recommends a quick-drying, residue free solvent to clear up those areas. Make sure you scrape off any residual glue or putty that tends to frequent door insides.
2. Size and Cut
Next you need to make sure your Dynamat is the right size and shape. Getting an exact fit might take some time and patience; you may even want to use a paper or cardboard template first. Have a hobby knife and scissors on hand so you can be prepared to trim often. Once you have your sheets properly eyeballed measured, you’re ready for step three.
3. Stick it On
Remove the release liner on the back of the Dynamat and gradually stick it to the target area. Dynamat recommends using their specialized roller application tool, which will prevent those pesky bubbles from forming. When you’re dealing with a larger, curving area, such as the floor, with that annoying drive shaft clearance that runs down the center, you’ll want to remove the release liner in small sections. This should keep you out of most sticky situations. Once everything is in place, go through with a knife or needle and poke all of those air bubbles you were sure you hadn’t allowed to form.
And that should be it. Be honest, now. You didn’t know it would be that easy. All that’s left to do is cruise, and you can thankfully do it, no matter how boisterous your exhaust, without going deaf.